Last Day in Florence

Day 10

Today was the last day of my trip. My last day to consume the Renaissance and Italian culture. My last cappuccino, gelato, wine, and Italian cuisine.  Assisting to burn off all the calories, today was about a very long, exploring walk in the Oltrano, and lots and lots of steps.  

First, as soon as it opened, I climbed ~414 steps up Giotti's bell tower. In no hurry, I took my time especially at the top - enjoying every ounce of the 360 degree views. It was 9:00 so I prepared myself for a very loud bell toll - which didn't come. I found out a little later that it rings 6 times a day, still echoing medieval times, ending with the 2 tolls an hour before sunset and again at sunset - warning and then announcing the closing of the city gates. 

Giotti's Bell Tower

The advantage of climbing the bell tower is seeing the dome up close.

Looking over the edge - that's a long way down!

In the afternoon we took the tour "A Little Peek" of the Duomo. It was our most expensive tour (particularly by the minute), and was truly a brief "little"  but satisfying and well done "peek". At the end, it was our fastpass up ~460 steps to Brunelleschi's masterpiece, the dome.  Our friendly guide joked to some tourists climbing by, 

"You go up with your shopping bags!"  And then commented to us, "Sometimes they go up with their luggage and strollers."

From the top, which is slightly higher than the bell tower, it feels like you could almost leap to it - which was an interesting sensation since I didn't feel it earlier from the top of the tower. We didn't stay long because it was very crowded, and there was a line to get back down. (There are sections where the people climbing up share the narrow walkway with people going down.) Climbing the dome is an absolute highlight of a visit to Florence, and I would recommend it first thing in the morning. 

Squeezing in to the hotel room together for our last night.

Our last dinner was a picnic sitting on the wall of the Arno River enjoying the sun setting on the Ponte Vecchio. 

Signing off until next time...

"This is Italy"

Day 9

Villa Balbianello

Waking up, I discover the cold wind is still here today, and the high mountains were dusted with snow overnight. I could tell today's ferries would be a rough seas adventure!

I took the fast ferry to Lenno, which was on a slow schedule, running 25 minutes late. The water was crashing over the bow, causing me to wonder if the taxi boat to the Villa would be running?  There is a walkway but it is only open Friday - Sunday (and today is Thursday, I am pretty sure). 

 At the taxi launch to Balbianello, I check if the taxi is running. "You can go by path, it's closer than the boat", he says with a laugh. I believe he has translated the incorrect adjective. Safer...dryer...I'm sure he meant, since even the pier is clearly going to launch me into the rough water. 

I'm so excited that the Villa, the path, is actually open that I want to run all the way there (a 20 minute slow walk). I can't believe I am here and have the place to myself. I dash around the gardens giddy as a school girl, in disbelief of all the beauty surrounding this place. I might as well be Padme getting married here (in Star Wars II) or Eva kissing James Bond in Casino Royale. I believe this is the most beautiful castle, palace or home I have ever traveled to. Every garden view and every window is a postcard view.  This is my dream home. 

The loggia, with its columns entwined with a climbing fig, offers extraordinary views of the lake from 2 sides. 

Breath-taking view

View towards Como

Exploring the gardens

Originally built in 1788, today the Villa - it's splendid furnishings and the magnificent gardens  - are owned by the FAI (Italian national trust).  

I wish my mom made this journey with me - Mom, you would love it here as much as I do.  The previous owner traveled all over the world collecting amazing momentos - even artifacts from 2000 BC.  The Villa exists as if he had just left it.  The special library in the loggia has 4,000 books about travel and his expeditions. His father owned the 1st big chain of supermarkets in Italy, which apparently generated some serious cash flow. 

The one thing - other than his desire to travel - that I have in common with the previous owner ... The spice rack from my childhood (he died in 1971).

Villa Balbianello was worth every ounce of effort I made to journey to Lake Como. 

My next plan was to walk the Green Walk Way to Tremezzo but I happened chance to discover that the ferries were no longer running (due to this rare wind). He tells me, "this is Italy," clearly meaning nothing goes as planned and everything is flexible.  How can I get across the lake to my train??  The most helpful man I have met yet told me how: the autobus to Como. Here starts the rest of my day of waiting and traveling - all interesting. 

I wait on the side of the road for an hour for the bus. As I realize it does not announce its stops, and I don't even know quite where to get off (there is more than one station in Como), I start asking passengers. Someone has given me bad advice: ask teenagers because they know English. So I try it. Their snarky reply gives away their juvenile ignorance, "Yes, do you speak Italy?"  Thankfully a nice man interferes to help me, and I end up following the snarky teenagers to the train station. In the end I make it home to Florence for ~13 euro more than planned. And through this detour I experience Italy, shop, and discover: avoid Como, if you can - if you want to see the real Lake Como.

Field Trip to Lake Como

Day 8 

Today's adventure involved the high-speed train back to Milano to catch a local train to Lake Como. I'm traveling alone this time - determined to see the lake's beauty!  

When I arrived at Milano's centrale stazione, it actually took me almost 25 minutes to figure out where to go next - even though I was just there a few days earlier!  I could circumnavigate the station no problem but my train wasn't listed on the board. I asked for help 4 times, and got a different answer each time - all wrong. Finally a kind man translated for me so I could figure out the end destination of my line (Tirano) - what I had written as the last stop was only a main stop. 

From start to finish it took me 3.5 hours to get to Varenna, Lake Como. When the train pulled into the station, I waited to get out with 2 sets of foreigners: 1) the ones who didn't validate their tickets (lucky to not get fined) and 2) the ones who were running up and down the platforms trying to find the right train. When the doors didn't open, they said maybe we weren't there yet. No, people are getting out!  So I grabbed the big red door handle - that looks like an emergency handle - and we spilled out onto the oncoming train tracks. Seems wrong but it was right!

Varenna from the train

OMG... Lake Como is beautiful!  I am trying to remember the last time I saw such a beautiful place!  I caught the ferry to the town I was staying in - Bellagio. Normally Bellagio is quite touristy, and where you might catch a glimpse of George Clooney. But today it is the off season. My hotel, Hotel Splendide, has spoiled me with an incredible lake front view - and a complimentary aperitif at the lake front cafe. I'm off to a great start!

Car ferry to Bellagio

Bellagio

A cold front came down from Switzerland. Where as it is bright and sunny, the temperature has dropped to the mid 50s with a strong wind. Walking around for a little over an hour was enough to see the town (without shopping), and make it out to the Tremezzina - the point where the lake's 3 branches meet. 

Punta Spartivento - the tip of Bellagio. (The mountains in the distance get snow tonight.)

Other than the howling wind, the rest of the day was quiet. 

Uffizi and Palazzo Vecchio

Day 7

What luck. Today was a museum day, and we were in for rain. 

If you know anything about the Uffizi, you know 1) reserve your ticket ahead, and 2) don't go on Tuesday. Figuring I was by myself and could deal with crowds, I ignored #2 - which turned out to be good and bad. The good is that the next day I am here the public museums will be striking (closed) which I never could have known 2 months ago. The bad is that it truly was crowded. Today - actually all over Florence - felt like a Saturday at Disneyland!  I don't mind that I had to wait in line to pick up my reserved ticket and then had to wait in another line to get in. But I would have preferred to get up close to Botticelli's beautiful artwork to see the details. And to have a step stool to view it properly - from my height I get a bunch of glare on most of the artwork . As soon as I got through the 1st upper wing, it was smooth sailing - with much less people.   I enjoyed my personal tour of the Uffizi! 

Crowded Uffizi viewing the Birth of Venus

For lunch we went to the the Central Market's Da Nerbone for a lampredorro (stomach) sandwich. Not!  We had yummy other meat instead, with wine to wash it down. The market is nice to walk around to see the primary ingredients of Tuscan cuisine.

Traditional meats in the Old Market - Florentines are not wasteful!

In the afternoon we took a "secret passageways" tour of the Palazzo Vecchio - inspired by Dan Brown's "Inferno". I am glad I did because now I know it is skippable for next time. The concept is cool, and our actress guide made it better, but I guess my interest wasn't there. (The Brazilian loved it though!). You get to see 2 "secret" rooms and the ceiling/roof trestles.  Don't imagine recreating a scene from Inferno though. In fact, the ceiling of the gargantuan Room of 500 isn't canvas, it is wood.  However you can search out Dante's death mask.

For dinner we had reservations in the Oltrano at La Casalinga. We shared good caprese salad, pesto pasta, and ribolita. It is quite reasonably priced until the waiter accidentally (?) adds 10 euro to your bill. 

I would say my biggest struggle this trip is asking for directions. I hardly understand the response, and they like to throw in nearby streets or places, which actually confuses me more (just give me simple). Last night trying to find the restaurant we got simple.  Literally "la, la". We found it. 

On the bright side, I can be a resource.  I helped several Americans (there are many in Florence) and even gave some Italians directions!

Florence Walking Tour

Day 6

Today's treat was hooking up with my brother Craig and Reene! We met them for breakfast. I brought them to Chiaroscuro because my notes said it was the best coffee. It was good coffee and a tasty pastry but what was even more enjoyable was the experience. He was very nice, spoke English, and let us sit (for a long time) for free.

Our first activity was a walking tour with Florinda at ArtViva. I thought it was very well done - but I learned even more on my last Florence tour with Rafaella, and will reserve with her (privately) next time. Florinda spoke perfect English, had American humor, and "acted" out her tour quite well.















Ponte Vecchio

For lunch, I had planned to return to my favorite. It is a hole in the wall (small not grimy) called ifratellini. They serve a choice of 30 sandwiches for 3 euro - delicious and on a fresh roll - and a glass of wine. They don't have seating (it's just a service window) so we took it to the Palazzo Signoria and sat on one of the many marble benches found throughout the city attached to important buildings. It's my dream lunch - a picnic in such splendor.


Lunch from I Due Fratellini.  Since there is no seating, they let us take the wine glass to the nearby Palazzo Signoria.

Then we headed to a free Florence walking tour called the "Medici" tour. It was very good for its price but I think a lot of it was the same info as the morning tour. I assumed it would be different because they also offer a free historical tour. Craig, Reene and mom skipped out early - for Grom gelato.

For the free tour, look for the guide in the red pants.  He leads both the free tours, and you will see him every day walking around Florence.  (He had on the same outfit every day.)

The tour ended in front of Pitti Palace, which I was seeing for my first time. The sun glowing on the palace made me realize we were needing to be at our next destination - watching the sunset over the city from the top of Piazzale Michelangiolo. It was so nice to sit up there on the steps with a beer, talking and enjoying the live music. Then we took in a few minutes of catholic mass in the crypt of San Miniato; I thought it was supposed to be a Gregorian chant - nope.

View from the Piazzale Michelangiolo

Sitting on the steps of the Piazzale Michelangiolo enjoying the atmosphere and view

Statue of David in the center of the parking lot at the Piazzale Michelangiolo

On the way down Craig and Reene were patient enough to find a place I wanted to try: l'Pizzacchiere. I wish I were paying attention on the way up because we actually walked right by it! It is very small and quickly filled up after opening at 6:00. More deliciousness!

We weren't done yet. Craig wanted to get train tickets, and I was determined to find the most direct route to the station... After the immediate, original Roman grid of the old city, the streets randomly spiderweb out.

The weirdest sensation today was déjà vu several times ... I could so clearly remember being in the exact places with Greg on our 2011 trip, like it was just last week! I touched the boar for both of us so we can come back again soon!

Next Stop, Italy

Day 5

Said was gracious enough to serve us an early breakfast and catch us a taxi to the airport for our flight to Milan. Oh boy, back to the airport. Make sure you leave plenty of time for all the lines you have to wait in!  The most surprising was walking up to the same (long) customs line... seriously, even on the way out?!  The best thing about leaving was flying out on Britain's EasyJet. I had quite the low expectations for the cheap, no frills airline but out of Morocco, they are the way to go. I was overjoyed when the primary announcement was made in English!  I thought it was funny that they announce the seats need to be in their upright position, but they don't even recline. 

Looking out the plane window, at the foreign lands below, I am emotional - thankful to my dearest Greg for allowing me to travel (I love you!). 

From Milan we would be taking the bullet train to Florence. We had a few hours to kill so we dropped our bags at the train station's left luggage, and went exploring. I really wanted to see Milan's duomo, the 2nd largest cathedral in the world!  Actually what I really wanted to do was go on its terraces (roof) but pressed for time, decided to save it for next time. Instead we walked around inside the church. I was first struck by how dark it is, but when my eyes adjusted, the stained glass popped out with colorful brilliance. Staring at the pillars and ceiling, I was in awe by its enormity. 

We returned to the train station with almost 2 hours to spare because mom did not want to miss our train. Other than needing to pick up our bags and get a bite to eat, we didn't need more than 15 minutes there because that is about the time they announce the platform. I had read really horrible stories about the theft at the station, but did not see it as an unsafe place - it's best to be aware, prepared, and smart though. I used the extra time to people watch, observe how the station works, and appreciate that I am in Europe. 

 

It was my 1st time on a bullet train. They are fast (190 mph)!  At least they sound and feel fast - it was dark so I couldn't see the landscape flying past. 

When we arrived in Florence, mom was openly relieved to be greeted by her driver and driven off in a Bentley. I wandered around on my way to the hotel - reacquainting myself with the sights. We are staying at the Hotel Bernini, one step from the Palazzo Vecchio. Our view is of Brunelleschi's beautiful dome. 

Last day in Marrakech

Day 4

Today felt like a game of catch where no one can catch the ball...somewhat frustrating. Some highlights. Some lowlights. Overall I am going to leave here saying Marrakech was tantalizing and exciting. I am thankful for my visit. I met some wonderful Moroccans; there are many. But at times I felt like a stupid American. I don't know Arabic. I don't know French. I don't understand. Using hand signals doesn't work well - do they point a different way for down?  For some reason, I'm quite embarrassed to admit, past day one the food is no longer appetizing and the smells make me nauseous. 

So, what did we do today?  I started at sunrise (late here at 7:45) with my camera taking pictures of the locals opening their shops. I love that!  Then we went to the Saadien Tombs, a huge ruined palace populated with storks, and the souks (shopping). 

Getting the chickens ready to be delivered.

My secret to getting around the medina was to see which way the satellite dishes were facing…they point you to the square.

The souks are entertaining and bustling with activity. You can't avoid them, as they are part of the maze to where you want to go. The Moroccans think we are "Allemand" (German), which they can't speak, so unless we are speaking to each other (the American giveaway), they leave us alone. I wanted to shop but I do not like to haggle. Determined to come home with gifts, I made the plunge. The owner and I are sitting down exchanging prices on a notepad. (Thankfully no hot, sweet mint tea was involved.) He actually wanted twice the price as 3 shops down, and expected me to pay his "fair" price. "Not today" my guide Abdul had advised me to say. Finally we agreed and shook hands - only to find out he didn't have enough pieces. And I'm certain he went 3 shops down to buy more!

 

One of the many lamp shops in the souks.  I really wanted to bring one home!

Colorful Moroccan slippers - babouches

Then I decided I needed to experience a camel (dromedary - 1 hump) ride.  That was pretty cool because it was unique!  I was driven out to the Palmerie to a large dirt lot - with about 6 camels tied up.  They suited me up in appropriate attire, and walked me around (on a leash) for about 45 minutes.  Definitely not exciting but calming and somewhat refreshing (compared to the crowds and stifling air in the medina). But I really did not need it's ending - with no fair warning, they made me wait (in the dirt lot, mind you) over an hour (until the ATV riders returned) to finally give me a ride back to the medina.  But the worst was the tease of a beer cap sticking out of the dirt; then I began hallucinating ice cold beer. 

Dinner was back at the riad which serves a forbidden, expensive bottle of wine that we accompanied with a small amount of cheese, crackers and olives. In the morning we depart to Italy, and we are ready!